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| Written by Lisa Guion | |
| Friday, 12 February 2010 | |
 Lisa Guion gets divine in DharamsalaWelcome to Dharamsala, northern India – Hilltown in Himachal Pradesh, Historic centre of the Raj and centre for the Tibetan Government in Exile and home to thousands of Tibetan refugees since 1959. Travelling in India presents a riot of experience and sensory excitement. People, colours, smells, motorbikes, cows, temples, every cliché, which become immediately and overwhelmingly evident to the noses and stomachs of the Indian first timer. But in Dharamsala, the experience is tempered by a somewhat calmer atmosphere, different foods and a plethora of different faces – still India – but with lots more western travellers, monks in robes, and Tibetan women in traditional dress. The myriad charms of this amazing Himalayan community are best found by a little immersion, a bit of talking to other travellers, following noticeboards, and a lot of patience. The main tourist hotels are in the traveller and Tibetan areas, which are actually above the town of Dharamsala in the villages of McLeod Ganj, Bagsu and Dharamkot. There are a few not-to-be-missed cultural experiences, the Tibet Museum, the Norbulingka Institute, and plenty to see and do for a week long visit. But most travellers come here and spend long breaks in the town teaching refugees, volunteering in monasteries, or studying longer courses in Buddhist philosophy or Tibetan language. A quick way to fold into some Buddhist thinking is to take a course at one of the meditation centres around the town. Tushita Meditation Centre runs a variety of week long courses in Buddhist philosophy and really is a superb way to get a good immersion into practice. Other monastery groups have regular classes and serve as a good drop-in if a longer course is not for you. Now, if all that dharma and sangha is not really up your alley you probably wouldn't be in Dharamsala. But if you were looking for something to do, there are a myriad of ways to have adrenalin and touristic buzzes. From skydiving, yoga, Himalayan trekking, holistic treatments, other tourists, cooking classes, hail storms, and, of course, momos. Momos are the digestible food symbol of Tibetan culture and my, how delicious they are. Choose your favourite vendor on every street corner, or take a course in Momo preparation at Lhamo's Kitchen. And in terms of nightlife there are a few cinemas, bars and clubs in McLeod Ganj and Bagsu, but most travellers do seem to be on an early to bed, early to rise routine. Maybe it was just me. There are a variety of travel options to get to Dharamsala. Delhi is the closest international airport. You can then take a train and transfer bus or taxi combo, or a flight right into Gaggal, 15km south of Dharamsala. There are also direct buses from Delhi. Or three trains and a tiny Himalayan toy train packed to the rafters, which may or may not break down, leaving you in the mountains, in the dark – but that’s another story... |
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